What are the best things to do in County Derry?

Walk the city walls first, the whole circuit: they are complete 17th-century walls, and from them the city's shape, its two hillsides and its story explain themselves. Come down for the museums on both sides of that story, told carefully. Then take the coast day north to Mussenden Temple and the Downhill strand, and, if you have a second day, go south to Bellaghy for the Seamus Heaney HomePlace, in the landscape his poems describe. The Sperrins are the walkers' option, open and empty hills. If time is short, drop the Roe Valley: a lovely river valley, and the first thing a full itinerary sheds.

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