What Irish dishes should I try beyond stew, and where does each come from?
Stew is only the start. Seafood chowder in a harbour pub, the day's catch in a creamy bowl, is judged by locals on generosity. Boxty, the potato pancake of Leitrim and Fermanagh, comes crisp edged from the griddle. Colcannon and champ are mashed potato worked with kale, or with spring onions: properly a Halloween dish that escaped. Dublin coddle is the capital's slow pot of sausages, rashers, potato and onion. Soda bread is baked daily everywhere, raised with soda and buttermilk rather than yeast. And barmbrack, the tea soaked fruit loaf, is eaten buttered and thick. Each dish belongs to a place, and our food page maps them county by county.
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